To begin to correctly line up your chain and wheels you need at least two people, two long straightedges and the proper size wrenches for your rear axle hardware and the axle adjustment system. You will also need some wooden shims in the form of short pieces of two-by-fours (2 x 4) and some thin pine molding stock. If you have major race team backing, you won’t have to worry about the straight edge part; you will have “L’ shaped angle iron bike-length straight edges stowed aboard the race trailer, but if you are a regular bucks-down privateer like most folks, you need a quick easy-to-find low cost alternative. How do you find motorcycle wheelbase lengths of material rigid enough to perform as a straight edge? Why long fluorescent light tubes, that’s how! They don’t travel too well to be sure, but they are reasonably inexpensive and can be used at the shop at home, stowed carefully in foam rubber in the race van and even borrowed from some paddock light fixtures; provided you graciously re-install them to their proper place afterwards. Most home improvement stores stock the long sizes (mine are 93” long, single pole contract -- G.E. part # F96T12-CW, cool white), just be cautious driving back to the pits with them. They can be rather fragile at times.

Have someone straddle the motorcycle, and bring the motorcycle perfectly vertical. This can be done by the seat of the pants method, a carpenter’s level held to the lower or upper fork triple clamp or probably the most convenient -- a magnetic protractor level indicator. These are available from SEARS™ or other outlets and have a clear plastic body with a magnetic base. Affix the level indicator to your front brake rotor (either side) via the magnetic base and adjust the bike to dead center vertical with your compadre astride the mount. This works best with solid mounted front rotors; however, if you have floating front brake rotors, with a little fiddling; you can get it right. Next, have the person on the bike try to get the front wheel and fork as straight as possible by sighting ahead. At this point loosen your rear drive chain to a “ball park” setting. This will be your reference point. Very carefully snug, and only snug the adjusters and the axle nut down.

Now, laying the fluorescent light tubes alongside the sidewall of the rear tire, move to the front. You will notice that the front tire will be some distance from the light tubes. This is simply because the front tire is smaller than the rear. You must now “shim” the front wheel to the fluorescent light tube whilst maintaining its contact with the sharp sidewall edges of the rear tire. This will take a little patience for the precision necessary, but the final results will be worth it. Once you have attained a straight-forward, straight-up attitude, make sure that the fluorescent light tubes (one on ether side) are in full contact with the rear tire first and then properly shimmed to contact with the front tire. Check everything not once, not twice, but three times to make sure all your calculations are correct. Now, adjust your rear axle and chain again. Take a stainless steel graduated pocket rule and measure your chain adjuster bolts to the smallest measurement to be equal on both sides. Check everything again. Tighten your axle and adjusters. Go back and go over all of the contact points and adjustments with care. Now, sight down along the top of your drive chain, looking from back to front. You should be able to tell if everything is copasetic at this point. Looking all of the mechanicals over painstakingly, you can move to the next part.

Remove the fluorescent light tubes and your wooden shims. Roll the bike by hand back and forth. The difference can even be audible at times. Instead of the tense crack and pop of an out of line chain, you should hear a quiet “shoosh-shoosh”, like a pretty woman with silk stockings walking along.

If you have it right and you will know when you have it right, check your work one last time. Lock down all of your axle nut and adjusters then apply safety wire wherever necessary. Start the engine and place the motorcycle in first gear, then replace it to neutral. The bike’s chain should tense slightly when put in gear, then relax when taken out of gear. It should not be overly tight, nor too sloppy. Riding slowly through the pits you should be able by now to feel the difference. Once clear of the congested paddock areas, flick the bike left, then right, waiting for the correct response through the seat, pegs and handlebars. If everything was done correctly, you should be rewarded with a very controlled fluid sensation in all three contact points. Moreover, your head, that thing your helmet protects, should be telling you yes, Yes, YES! This is that sweet spot that we have been searching for, that moment when knowledge joined with skill, and attention to detail produce that scintillating culmination of racebike perfection. Out on the racetrack, the motorcycle should flow effortlessly through the esses, and track easily down the straight-aways. Proper racing bike tuning not only brings you closer to the checkered flag, but it also leaves you with the satisfaction of knowing that you have done things in a manner that emotes safety, professionalism, and confidence. It rides and it glides, right??

Vaya Con Dios!